Thyme

I believe that the essence of cooking is in right choice of the herbs. My herbal collection is quite small, but though some of them are essential for everyday cooking. In my house there's always parsley, dill, mint, marjoram, basil, cinnamon, oregano, cloves, bay, rosemary, saffron, chives and – thyme.

Thyme is one of my favourite herbs. History of this important Mediterranean herb dates back to Egyptians and antic Greeks and Romans. In Slavic languages thyme is named „mother's soul“ and indeed it is unavoidable in Mediterranean cuisine. Thyme became known in wider world thanks to French region Provence, famous by French Mediterranean food. Egyptians used thyme for mummifying, but today thyme is part of dukka, a spice mix of thyme, cumin, black pepper, sesame seeds and nuts. It was also used to produce perfumes. White monks made herbal teas to cure coughing and soar throat. Greeks and Romans put thyme in honey and vinegar to make energetic drink, ancestor of modern Red Bull, I suppose. Arabs believe thyme is good for concentration and learning.
France is today mostly known for using thyme in kitchen, but it is favourite herb in some other countries, including Creole cuisine in Louisiana. Dried thyme is used for sauces and meat. I always rub the meat before grilling with thyme. Fresh thyme has mild taste and goes perfectly with olive oil, tomatoes and other vegetables.
The best is to mix everything together. That is what I do with steaks. Thin beef stakes are grilled on both sides with olive oil for some minutes and afterwards placed in deep pan. Every steak is salted and covered with chopped garlic, parsley and thinly sliced tomatoes. Great amount of thyme is added and covered with additional olive oil. Meat is stewed for five or six minutes. After that add white wine, best of which is malvasia. On stronger fire stew until the wine is barely covering the meat. Serve warm, placing steaks first and then the sauce.

Fennel surprise

Often unjustly neglected on the menus, aromatic vegetable fennel is ideal for various salads, as additive to soups, fish and meat. Fennel is found in the Mediterranean and its offspring is similar to onion, but it tastes sweet and fresh, great for summer time. If you use imagination, it can be an ingredient as a base of many dishes. For example, on Croatian island Lošinj one prepares gnocchi with finely chopped fennel, and in coast town Crikvenica you can find fish steaks with marinated fennel. You can use every part of fennel; bulb, seeds and leaves.

Fennel tastes pretty much as anise, and can be served fresh with apple and celery, avocado and orange, with prosciutto and pears. It is also very tasteful if you stew it with onions, tomatoes and pears, while divine experience is achievable with smoked salmon and shallots.
Fresh leaves are used to make mayonnaise sauce and salad dressings.
In Greece, fennel is main ingredient for ouzo. Drink turns white when water is added, and in the Balkans it is also part of many various brandies. Old belief says that fennel is put in door lock, to prevent evel to come in house at night.

Gnocchi with fennel and chicken

40 dag chicken fillet

4 tbsp olive oil

20 dag fennel

2 dl cooking cream

salt, pepper

80 dag ready spinach gnocchi

Chop chicken fillet in bigger cubes, salt and pepper and spread minced fennel. Heat olive oil in a pan, add chicken and stir until it gets golden colour. Add chopped fennel. When fennel softens, add cream and let it boil. Serve it with cooked gnocchi.

Potato Year

Did you know 2008 is the Year of Potato?
Food prices are soaring worldwide, driven by fierce competition for reduced international supplies of wheat, maize and rice, and other agricultural commodities. As concern grows over the risk of food shortages and instability in dozens of low-income countries, global attention is turning to an age-old crop that could help ease the strain of food price inflation.
The potato is already an integral part of the global food system. It is the world's number one non-grain food commodity, with production reaching a record 320 million tonnes in 2007. Potato consumption is expanding strongly in developing countries, which now account for more than half of the global harvest and where the potato’s ease of cultivation and high energy content have made it a valuable cash crop for millions of farmers.
At the same time, the potato – unlike major cereals – is not a globally traded commodity. Only a fraction of total production enters foreign trade, and potato prices are determined usually by local production costs, not the vagaries of international markets. It is, therefore, a highly recommended food security crop that can help low-income farmers and vulnerable consumers ride out current turmoil in world food supply and demand.
In Peru, for example, the government has acted to reduce costly wheat imports by encouraging people to eat bread that includes potato flour. In China, the world's biggest potato producer, agriculture experts have proposed that potato become the major food crop on much of the country's arable land. India has plans to double its potato production.
Food of the future. The International Year of the Potato is raising awareness of the key role played by the "humble tuber" in agriculture, the economy and world food security. But it also has a very practical aim: to promote development of sustainable potato-based systems that enhance the well-being of producers and consumers and help realize the potato's full potential as a "food of the future".
Over the next two decades, the world's population is expected to grow on average by more than 100 million people a year. More than 95 percent of that increase will occur in the developing countries, where pressure on land and water is already intense. A key challenge facing the international community is, therefore, to ensure food security for present and future generations, while protecting the natural resource base on which we all depend. The potato will be an important part of efforts to meet those challenges...
Potatoes are a truly global food
The potato has been consumed in the Andes for about 8 000 years. Taken by the Spanish to Europe in the 16th century, it quickly spread across the globe: today potatoes are grown on an estimated 192 000 sq km, or 74 000 square miles, of farmland, from China's Yunnan plateau and the subtropical lowlands of India, to Java's equatorial highlands and the steppes of Ukraine.
Potatoes feed the hungry
The potato should be a major component in strategies aimed at providing nutritious food for the poor and hungry. It is ideally suited to places where land is limited and labour is abundant, conditions that characterize much of the developing world. The potato produces more nutritious food more quickly, on less land, and in harsher climates than any other major crop - up to 85 percent of the plant is edible human food, compared to around 50% in cereals.
Potatoes are good for you
Potatoes are rich in carbohydrates, making them a good source of energy. They have the highest protein content (around 2.1 percent on a fresh weight basis) in the family of root and tuber crops, and protein of a fairly high quality, with an amino-acid pattern that is well matched to human requirements. They are also very rich in vitamin C - a single medium-sized potato contains about half the recommended daily intake - and contain a fifth of the recommended daily value of potassium.
Demand for potatoes is growing
World potato production has increased at an annual average rate of 4.5 percent over the last 10 years, and exceeded the growth in production of many other major food commodities in developing countries, particularly in Asia. While consumption of potato has declined in Europe, it has increased in the developing world, from less than 10 kg (22 lb) per capita in 1961-63 to almost 22 kg (48.5 lb) in 2003. Consumption of potato in developing countries is still less than a quarter of that in Europe, but all evidence suggests it will increase strongly in the future.

Peruvian food

My HospitalityClub friend from Peru, Jorge, have send me few tips about Peruvian food. I have to admit I haven't been neither in Peru nor in some Peruvian restaurant and this, for me distant land, is a big mystery. But, as Gandalf would say in Lord of the Rings: If in doubt... follow your nose!
It wasn't nose I've followed but a little bit of browsing on the net and few questions on various forums. But, following your nose can be quite good as Lima, capital of Peru, is also declared Gastronomic capital of Americas at the Fourth International Summit of Gastronomy Madrid Fusión 2006, regarded as the world's most important gastronomic forum. Peruvian cuisine is great mix of Incas, Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, Italian and French food cultures, resembling all the nations that had interest in this Andean country. Also regional is Peru very diverse and it encompasses the cuisine of the coast, of the Lima, of the mountains and jungles. Peruvian government takes many efforts to brand their country through the food, after success made by Thailand or Vietnam. The success was obvious in the Economist from 2004, which states that "Peru can lay claim to one of the world's dozen or so great cuisines".

As Jorge told me, Peruvian ceviche is among most characteristic coastal dishes in Peru, but also in neighboring countries. It is citrus marinated seafood salad, mostly based on lemon and lime, my favourite citrus fruit. Origin of the dish dates back to Inca times, but is also influenced by Spanish conquistadors:
The Peruvian cook cleans the fish and lets it soak in salt water for 10 minutes and then removes it and pats it dry.

1 lb fish fillets of corbina, red snapper, or any good quality whitefish
juice of three lemons
juice of three sour oranges or limes
one medium onion, thinly sliced
salt and pepper to taste
a pinch of cayenne pepper
1 clove of garlic, minced
1 hot pepper, chopped fine
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (coriander)

Cut fish into pieces and place on a platter. Place the thinly sliced onions on the fish. Then add the remaining ingredients, covering with the juices. Place in refrigerator for at least 4 hours before serving. Serve on bed of lettuce and garnish with cold sweet potato or corn-on-the-cob.

Leche de tigre (tiger's milk), is the Peruvian colloquial name for the juice produced from the ingredients of ceviche. It has a light spicy flavor and serves as a good reconstituent. Local custom recommends ceviche as a breakfast for sleepwalkers, a hangover cure and as an aphrodisiac. Unlike ceviche from Mexico and Ecuador, it does not have tomatoes, and unlike that of Tahiti it does not use coconut milk, though both are abundant in Peru.

Anticuchos (Quechua for Cut Stew Meat) are popular, inexpensive dishes in Andean countries consisting of small pieces of grilled skewered meat. Anticuchos can be readily found on streetcarts and street food stalls (anticucherias). The meat may be marinated in vinegar and spices (such as cumin, aji pepper and garlic), and while anticuchos can be made of any type of meat, the most popular type are made of cow heart (anticuchos de corazon). Anticuchos often come with a boiled potato on the end of the skewer.

Beef:
1 1/2 pounds boneless sirloin steak, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons ground aji amarillo or hot paprika
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

Fiery rub:
1 teaspoon ground aji amarillo or hot paprika
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Cooking spray
Roasted Yellow Pepper Sauce

Preparation

To prepare the beef, combine first 7 ingredients in a large bowl; toss well. Cover and chill 3 hours.
To prepare fiery rub, combine 1 teaspoon paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, turmeric, and parsley. Prepare grill. Remove beef from bowl, discarding marinade. Thread beef onto each of 6 (10-inch) skewers. Press fiery rub onto beef. Place kebabs on grill rack coated with cooking spray; grill 6 minutes or until desired degree of doneness, turning once. Serve with Roasted Yellow Pepper Sauce.

For additional information and recipes on this cuisine, which I find very interesting, visit blog Peru Food.

His Majesty Gazpacho

Spaniards are blessed with big country full of rich tastes and nice smells. Spices rule over Iberian peninsula from time of Romans to conquistadors who sailed the world, bringing back tons of different spices. And they use them passionately. When the food is hot, then it is really hot; when it is aromatic, whole Spain is wrapped in beautiful odor. Different climate in Andalusia, Galicia, Catalonia, La Mancha and other parts of this country makes out of Spanish cuisine rich mosaic of food and drink. Right now, as elsewhere in Southern Europe, sun is getting hotter, days harder and it is time for his majesty: gazpacho.

Full of energy, refreshing cold soup is probably the richest culinary invention of Andalusia. I've stumbled across an interesting text about gazpacho:
Red gazpacho, the one which is just called gazpacho, is basically a cold and uncooked vegetable soup. In its most concentrated form it is the Cordob salmorego, a very thick creamy soup with no water in it, which just adds tomato to the base. In Cordoba itself, it is served with hard boiled eggs, quartered or chopped and strips of ham. In the rest of province, it might be garnished with chopped almonds, cumin crushed with mint, or with orange segments. The salmorejo is also one of the components of a very nice tapa, the pan de pueblo (country bread) an uncooked dish combining tomato, salt cod, garlic and parsley. The best known red gazpacho is the more liquid Sevillian type, which to a certain point reflects the general formula. The original mixture is supplemented here with large quantities of tomato and smaller proportions of cucumber and green pepper. It is served garnished with green pepper, hardboiled egg, fried bread, onion, tomato and cucumber, everything being finely chopped.
White gazpacho is typical of the south and east of Andalusia. This is Malaga's famous ajo blanco (white garlic) which, according to some people, dates back to Moorish times and which according to others is a peasant dish adapted for city tastes in the nineteenth century. It consists of pounding peeled almonds with cooking salt before crushing the basic elements into the mixture and then adding water to get the smoothness of a soup. Outside Malaga, which gazpacho can be made with pine seeds. At the beginning of summer, the strong flavour of garlic is sweetened with cubes or little balls of melon or apple and in September, with grapes.
Finally, less know but by no means less attractive is the green gazpacho from the Huelva region and the Sierra Morena where flavour is given by chopped herbs and green vegetables. In the first group, coriander, mint and parsley and basil can be combined or alone, while lettuce, green pepper and endive bring freshness and texture.
And here are two recipes, the first one is my favourite.

Gazpacho Andalus - Andalusian Salad-Soup

Ingredients

• 75 g stale bread (Spanish loaf, not packaged bread), crusts removed
• 1 kg ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded
• 3 cloves garlic
• 2 tsp salt
• pinch of ground cumin
• 6 tbsp olive oil
• 5 tbsp vinegar
• about 300 ml water

For the garnish:

• 100 g green peppers, finely chopped
• 100 g cucumber, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 small tomatoes, finely chopped
• 2 slices bread, toasted and diced

A note about tomatoes: vine-ripened tomatoes are one of Spain’s summertime treats. If possible, buy the big, beefy ones. Even if they are slightly green, they will ripen in a few days. Avoid the all-of-a-size and colour long-life tomatoes. They’re bred for shipping long distances and just don’t have the flavour of the local varieties.

Tomatoes can be skinned before making the gazpacho. Instead of the usual method of dipping them in boiling water, try running the blunt edge of a knife across the skin, then pulling it off. Otherwise, puree the tomatoes, then sieve them to remove skin and seeds.

Recipe

Put the bread to soak in enough water to cover for 10 minutes. Squeeze out excess water and put the bread in a blender or processor. Cut the peeled tomatoes into chunks and add to the blender with the garlic, salt and cumin. Process until puréed (in two or more batches if necessary). With the motor running add the oil in a slow stream, then add the vinegar. The mixture will thicken and change colour as the oil emulsifies. Add a little of the water and transfer to a serving bowl or pitcher. Stir in water to the desired consistency. Chill until serving time. Place the chopped peppers, cucumbers, onion, tomato and breadcrumbs in individual small bowls or in a divided dish and serve them as accompaniments. Gazpacho may also be served in glasses or mugs for sipping. Omit the garnishes.

Salmorejo Cordobes - Gazpacho Cream

Ingredients

• 450 g stale bread, crusts removed
• 600 g tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 50 g green peppers
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 tsp salt
• 120 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 4 tbsp wine vinegar
• 100 g Serrano ham, cut in strips
• 2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced

Recipe

This is essentially gazpacho without the water. Serve it as a starter in individual ramekins, accompanied by bread. Or use it as a dip for raw vegetables such as carrot sticks, pepper strips, celery.

Soak the bread in enough water to cover for 15 minutes. Squeeze it out. Put in blender or processor with the tomatoes, pepper and garlic. Process until smooth. Add the salt. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow stream until it is incorporated. Blend in the vinegar. Serve the cream smoothed into little dishes, topped with strips of ham and sliced egg.

Cod with potatoes

Friday is day for fish in Catholic countries. I am not devoted catholic, but I like to follow these culinary traditions! Of course, fish is one of best known symbols for Christ and there are few Biblical tales about fish. Although symbolic is very deep, people use to eat fish on Friday as reminder on Biblical tale when Jesus fed five thousand men on shores of Sea of Galilee with only five loaves of bread and two fish. Today on that spot stands a church commemorated to this miracle.

Frogfish soup

Fish was main ingredient for poor fishermen families in Dalmatia, coastal part of Croatia. In mainland, river fish was used for no-meat Friday. Usually these have been large quantities as fish was cooked, stewed and just rarely baked, as there were lots of hungry mouths. Times change, but quantities didn’t. Recently I’ve been to a restaurant in centre of Zagreb, where I ate most delicious cod with potatoes lately. Restaurant’s name is “Kod Pere” (At Pero’s) and it is perfect for lunch. Even for hungry Croats as me and my friend portions were enormous and for a rather cheap price on this location.

Enormous bowl of cod with potatoes served in front of us Kod Pere

First we had a very nice frog fish soup and later cod with potatoes, very familiar and popular meal. To make it, one has to begin a night before when cod is well beaten and soaked in water overnight. Cod is then washed and cooked until it becomes soft. Take it out from the water (keep the water) and place it on serviette to clean it from bones. Peel potatoes, wash and slice it. Put one row of potatoes, one row of cod on plate and everything cover with sliced garlic, parsley and warm olive oil. Put salt and pepper, add a little bit of water where cod was cooked and bake it in oven until potatoes become soft.
For this you need 400g of cod, 1 kilo potatoes, olive oil, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper.