Macedonia and its peppers

Recently I have been in Macedonia and this trip reminded me of previous visit when I fully enjoyed the hospitality of Macedonian people, their remarkable cuisine and sweetest wine of the Balkans. Macedonia is a small country situated in the heart of Balkan Peninsula with just over two million inhabitants. It is land-blocked country, but with beautiful lakes Ohrid, Prespa and Dojran. In former Yugoslavia there is something like sentimental thought on Macedonia, ex-Yugoslav southernmost republic. It is what Macedonians feel when they leave their homeland; sorrow for south or T'ga za jug, which is also a brand name of one of most appreciated red wine. It is also „a land where sun always shines“, land of orthodox monasteries and old Turkish bazaars, home of wine, peppers, singing and sun.

Burek and boza on Skopje train station

First encountering with Macedonian food is possible already in train station. Burek (Turkish börek) is being sold in unlimited quantities, and while taxi drivers just take your bags in their taxies without asking, you should put your life in danger and drink most horrible, disgusting and terrible alcohol drink I've ever tries. It was invented in Albania and the name of this cognac is Skenderbeg, as the name of big Albanian hero. But if you think it is not yet time for being totally drunk, then take boza, non-alcoholic drink made out of corn flower, with pale brown colour and piquant taste.
Regarding other drinks, you can relax. Beer lovers can't do wrong in drinking Skopsko whose advert raises high above Ploštad Makedonija, central Skopje square. I myself like wine and that is Macedonian speciality. In region Kavadarci and Negotino there is Tikveš winery with rich, sweet wines made underneath best sunshine the south can give. It is uniquely vineyard which gives very special taste and fruity, temperamental, complex bouquet. Popular T'ga za jug is followed by more sophisticated Vranec, Temjanika and Smederevka, but also Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and one of best Traminer I've ever tried.
Macedonian kebab with peppers
If you are vegetarian, go straight to the Bit Pazar, among biggest in the Balkans, and enjoy in tons and tons of peppers, watermelons, beans, tomatoes and every other garden bit you can desire. On corners are tobacco sellers as tobacco (tutun) is famous Macedonian product. Around are kebab houses and kebab (ćevap) is here served with hot red Aleva pepper with slightly milder green pepper. The climate is here often very hot and one should eat hot. That is why Macedonians use pepper so much and you can see in countryside many houses with walls full of dried peppers. It goes in almost every meal possible.

Ethnic restaurants, targeted on foreigners, serve meals in wooden plates. Some of specialties you can try here are selsko meso, pork fried with onions, tomatoes and mushrooms and then mixed with little beef rolls. When you add flour, water and little bit of wine, it is baked in an oven. With it, one can order šopska or Macedonian salad, what are only variances of horiatiki, Greek peasant salad.
Afterwards, do try pastrmajlija, some sort of Macedonian pizza with pork, as well as mućkalica, a dish from Šar Mountain on border with Albania. It is cooked lamb leg with onion, garlic and pepper. After cooking it is well churned what is also source of its name.
Sweets, coffee and tea resemble Oriental origins. In future posts I will give you some recipes I've tried in my house and also with my Macedonian friend.